The Canary Islands

Geography - The Canary Islands are located on the Atlantic Ocean, near the Tropic of Cancer. These islands are geographically located 115 kilometers (70 miles) outside the coast of Africa. There is an east - west span of 500 kilometers (300 miles) among them. The closest point to this continent is Cabo Jabo in Morocco, the African coast of Western Sahara. This Canarian latitude, being subtropic in nature, places these islands in the same zone as such places as Orlando, Tampa, Cape Kennedy, San Antonio, Delhi, and Kuwait.

This archipelago is formed by seven islands and six islets (Alegranza, Montaña Clara, Roque del Este, Roque del Oeste, La Graciosa (the only inhabited one), and Los Lobos) in two provinces: Santa Cruz de Tenerife (with four islands: Tenerife, La Palma, La Gomera, and El Hierro) and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (with three islands: Gran Canaria, Fuerteventura, and Lanzarote). Even though its proximity to Africa, the Canary Islands are Spanish and this is the official language spoken. They are European and tourism is one of its main industries.

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Population - On 1998 the total population of the Canary Islands was 1,630,015. Gran Canaria alone on 1996 had a population of 714,139 people. This is not counting the number of tourists visiting on a given day.

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Name - The name Canary Islands comes from the wild canary bird serinus canarius, still found in the islands. When the first Spanish settlers arrived, they found these birds singing in the fields and forests and decided to name the islands after them. These birds are brown with shades of green and yellow in them. Many breeds of these animals can still be founds.

As the history goes, each individual island was named by its characteristics. One was named by its snow-covered mountain, Tenerife; one by its grassy fields; one was named by the fierce breed of dogs, canis in Latin, and called it Canaria. But the fact remains that the island of Gran Canaria, which I have focused my research on, was inhabited by a tribe who called themselves canarii. During the XV century, these natives fought against the conquistadores who later began to call these Fortunate Islands or Islands of Fortune based on a legend the Islands of Canaria or Canary Islands.

The famous dogs or canes have remained as a symbolic figure and coat of arms in the official seal of the islands. They can be found as bronze statues in the Santa Ana Plaza, in front of the Roman Cathedral in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

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Climate - Located in the subtropics of Cancer, the weather is always warm, oscillating between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit with little humidity. Summers are breezy and winters are very mild. Rain is minimal, which has created problems for irrigation and drinking water. The beaches are the most popular hot spots for tourists of all places. These islands’ main industry is tourism. But truly, even though we speak of these islands’ weather as ideal the truth is that the climate is quite varied and it extends all desired ranges. Hence Gran Canaria has been nicknamed a miniature continent. The coast-line of the north is mostly green, while the south is mostly beach-like in the coast. It is always warm. The average temperature is between 19 and 22 degrees Celsius (66 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit) year round.

There are several weather conditions that contribute to the excellent climate of these islands:

1. The Canary Islands are lucky enough to have trade winds or vientos alisios. The trade winds blow from northeast (NE) up to an altitude of 1,500 meters (4,500 feet) making it fresh and comfortable. This is the ocean breeze. Above the 1,500 meters (4,500 feet), the trade winds turn drier and hotter from the northwest (NW). Rain is more common in this area. Thus, it is also a lot greener.

The pine forests are cool and moist followed by real high zones, such as the highest Spanish peak, the Teide, where a layer of snow lays from November through March. Canarians can enjoy a day at the beach as easily as a picnic by a bond fire all in a day’s work.

2. One of the few sources of water is the Atlantic storms. From November through March, heavy rains fall all over the islands as sudden, quick downpours, bringing the temperatures down to 15 and 18 degrees Celsius (60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit). These rains keep the water tables up. This is what Canarians call a cold wave. If you go inland, or up the mountain, temperatures can lower to 0 degrees Celsius (32 degrees Fahrenheit).

3. Fortunately, the Canary islands do not experienc hurricanes.

4. The Siroco wind occurrence is the rare time of year when the trade winds stop blowing and the Sahara dessert wind sand dust blows instead. It is hot and very dry. It can reach 48 and 50 degree Celsius. It does not usually last long but it is quite unpleasant. Canarians actually do get sand blown into their homes so our windows and doors are kept closed until these winds pass.

5. On the other hand, the stream from the Gulf of Mexico also becomes the Canaries stream. This makes the Atlantic water cool as well as the air breezy and mild.

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Volcanoes - The Canary Islands are of volcanic nature. In fact, the highest peak, the Teide, is a giant volcanoe. It rises 3,718 meters (12,198 feet) above sea. It lies in the National Park of Ucanca in the island of Tenerife. In the middle of a great crater Las Cañadas, which occupies most of the South of the island. Many years ago, Canarians would hide there from the Spanish invaders. The plants are the unique endemic white broom vegetation. Many scientists come to the Canary Islands just to study its plants. You can take a cable car half way up this volcanic mountain and walk to the top, where you can feel the thinness of the air. There is a Parador Nacional de Turismo where you can stay and enjoy the breath-taking views. The first eruptions are thought to be dated from the tertiary age and are acid rock.

But if you really want to look at what a volcanoe can do, then you want to visit the island of Lanzarote. The National Park of Timanfaya, Rutas del Volcán, with over 25 craters, where an eruption changed the geography of the island into an arid and contorted looking ground. The floor of lava erupted to the ocean. This is why this island is nicknamed la isla de fuego, fire island. Few plants or animals live around the lava. One type of lizard is comfortable and a few accidental birds remain. This 18th century eruption lasted six years and it continues to give off heat today. Tourists can enjoy geysers and meals cooked on the ground up to 400 degrees Celsius. They are also advised not to walk barefoot in some places as to not get burned. If hay is placed in a hole on the ground it will ignite.

César Manrique was a famous Canarian arquitect, who had the insight to build beautiful sites around the nature of this and other islands. (Examples of his work and other sites in Lanzarote are: Jameos del Agua, Cueva de los Verdes, Salinas del Janubio, Montaña del Fuego, Volcán Timanfaya, Camel ride at Jameos del Agua, Valle de las Mil Palmeras. The "Olivinas" are the local semi-precious stone. You can visit where they are mined and you can purchased them as a jewel.  There are not enough words to describe this island.) 

Each island is noted for its unique features. Fuerteventura is famous for its beautiful beaches. This island's golden sand is famous to the locals and fortunately some beaches still remain remote and isolated. Fuerteventura is known as la isla de la tranquilidad, the calm island. Corralejo is its capital, a small fishing village with a beautiful white beach. This is actually the oldest volcanic beach but due to its proximity to the Sahara dessert, and the East winds, it has now been covered with sand having virtually no vegetation. An example of this kind of beach may be found on the Peninsula de Jandía.

La Palma, also known as la isla bonita or the pretty island, is the green island. Campers love to tent in the beautiful green valleys. On this island is typical to find natural fountains and numerous waterfalls in the different walking paths that characterized this island. The Parque Nacional de la Caldera de Taburiente was designated a National Park on October sixth, 1954. Its valleys are also beautiful with its forest and volcanoe. This island also has the biggest crater with an opening of over one and a half kilometers, which is full of Canarian pine. It is possible to drive to the top of the mountain where the oxygen is too thin for the trees. There, the vegetation changes to an arid terrain. Everything changes from green to brown. There, you will find one of the top International Astrophysics Observatories in the world, with the “clearest sky in the universe” atop the Roque de los Muchachos with an altitude of 2,426 meters. Constantly being technologically improved, there stands several white buildings that house potent telescopes which watch the universe constantly for us. Observatorio Astrofisico Internacional del Roque de los Muchachos (ORM) en La Palma Fauna in this island is also worth mentioning with its birds and insects.

Among the atributes of La Gomera, one of the smaller islands, are Los Organos (the organs), a cliff carved by the trade winds into shapes that produce sounds varying with the breeze. The island also hosts a laurisilva forest called Parque Nacional de Garajonay (Garajonay National Park), a usually foggy park where rare Mediterranean laurel trees from the Tertiary Period (26 to 66 million years ago) survive. This island is known as la isla Colombina or Columbus' island because Christopher Columbus was known to have stopped here because there is a church were he prayed and several other spots were he visited.

Worth mentioning is the whisling in La Gomera. Due to its mountanous terrain, a whistling language was developed by the aboriginals called the Guanches before the Spaniards inhabited the islands hence enabling locals to communicate with total accuracy from miles away. This language has survived and Gomeros communicate using whistling over long distances.

Links:

CNN article about whistling in La Gomera

An explanation

El Hierro the smallest island and it is known as la isla del meridiano or Greenwich Meridian's island. This island is the furthest and least developed. It has one street. When locals need to do something like go to the townhall, they announce that they are going to the ‘street’. They have finally built an airport. El Hierro has two main attritubes: Roque de la Bonanza and Juniper Tree.

From El Hierro, you can see the San Borondón islet. It is an islet that can be seen by locals and tourists alike, but it is not actually present. It is a mirage.

We finally come to my island, Gran Canaria. With a diameter of 49 kilometers and with 1,532 kilometers of surface area and 236 kilometers of beach coastline, this is the capital of one of the two provinces of the Canary Islands. There is a big rivalry between the two capitals, Gran Canaria and Tenerife. The competition as to who has better beaches, better nightlife, and others is fierce but amicable. Gran Canaria has the biggest and most populated city. It is also the most cosmopolitan. Unfortunately, this also brings more pollution and crime. We have more of a balance and a taste of all the other islands put together. (Example of places to visit are: Maspalomas beach, Dedo de Dios in Agaete, the pine forest, and mountanous areas, Pozo de las Nieves (1,950 meter), Roque Nublo in Tejeda, Parque Doramas, Jardín Botánico Canario, Casa de Colón, Montaña de Cuatro Puertas, in Telde where the Guanche funeral ritual place, Cruz de Tejeda, Gáldar and the Cueva Pintada, Artenara where the La Virgen de la Cuevita, el Pinar de Tamadaba, and Triana for shopping.)

Black sand beaches can be found in many of the islands. This is volcanic sand. Many locals enjoy the sun on these beautiful beaches as an alternative choice to the usual goden ones.

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Vegetation - Vegetation varies from the dessert-like botanical plants to the green forests of pine trees. Much vegetation is not found anywhere in the world and have not evolved, which has scientists mystified. This has caused much curiosity and research.

Related to this climate the vegetation of the Canary Islands is divided into four zones: 1) the lower zone; 2) the laurel forest zone; 3) the pine forest zone; and 4) the high mountain zone.

1) the lower zone: is mostly composed of xerophytic vegetation and is up to about 100 meters. There are also dune or sand stabilizer vegetations. Interestingly enough you will not see any vegetation as you lay on the beach as you would see on Cape Cod. Above the 100 meters the vegetation is dominated by cactus-like shrubs. Date palm trees can also be found in these areas. Palm trees used to be found near these areas but tourism has given way to apartment buildings.

Palm trees do not like the cold. You can eat its fruit, dates or támaras. They are used for many things. To this day, you can see the cleaning man sweeping the streets with the leaf of the Canarian palm tree. In La Gomera, palm trees give honey or 'miel de palma'. This honey is known for its medicinal use, specially for sore throats.

In the coastal area, you can still find an ocassional Drago Tree. This tree is now in extinction.

2) the Laurel Forest zone: this area is found between 600 and 1,500 meters where the NE trade winds meet the high mountains keeping the ground moist with rain and morning dew. It is very humid and temperatures are stable. These trees have become a staple of these islands and quite a site for tourists. The only other areas where laurel can be found in the islands are El Canal on La Palma, in the Frontera region of El Hierro and in the most important sites, the Anaga mountains on Tenerife and especially, the Garajonay National Park and World Site in the centre of the island of La Gomera, which the locals call Laurisilva, which I have already mentioned. In Gran Canaria, at Los Tiles de Moya, there still remains a few hectares formations of this type of forest.

3) the Canarian pine forest zone: as most pine forest, this area is beautiful, full of spectacular views and wonderful smells. It is mostly found in four islands: Gran Canaria, Tenerife, El Hierro and La Palma. Its extensive floors are covered by pine needles. As we will find in the mountain zones, sticky brooms are in these areas. Temperatures oscillates with drier air. Frost during winter. Up to 2,000 meters. These pine forest play an important role in keeping the watershed balance and prevention of soil erosion as well as protection of important flora and fauna. Such animals as the Canary woodpecker would not be able to survive otherwise. It is for this reason that over the last 40 years there has been a huge effort to replant these forests, especially in the islands of Gran Canaria and Tenerife, to re-establish its natural ecosystem.

Canarian pine grow piñones. Locals enjoy eating them all year round. 

4) the High Mountain zone: these regions consists of shrub vegetation and virtually no trees. Most of them reign by sticky broom or retama. They are mostly white, yellow, and violet, and have a wonderful smell.

- Another insteresting point to make before we move on from the subject of vegetation is that many scientist come to the Canary Islands to study its flora. It seems that for some reason it has not evolved through the years like in other parts of the world. This is a phenomena that has many mystephied.

The National Flower of Spain is the Carnation. The regional flower of the Canary Islands is the Cactus. Other plants and flowers that are typical are: the Esterlicia flower, and the Geranium.

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Agriculture - one of the biggest industries in the islands, is the export of agriculture. We export bananas, tomatoes, cuccumbers, peppers, pineapples, and tobacco. Bananas are rich in minerals because the soil is so rich and healthy. Fishing is also a big industry. There are many Saline factories you can go visit that produce sea-salt, naturally. One of our biggest sellers would surprise you. We have one of the best cigars in the world in the island of La Palma. Many consider it better than Cuban cigars.

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Arts and Crafts - are also famous with hand-made embroidery and pottery.  The pottery is called tallas and it is another big industry. They are made of clay and pieces of museum and can get very expensive. The Canarian wooden carved balcony has also become famous for its detailing and artesany.  Another example of wooden artesany is the Canarian chair or "silla Canaria" (photo). 

We also have a long tradition of weaving.  You can still see the artisan making the beautiful tablecloths.  They are made from what is called "tela de hilo" or linen or cotton.  Paño, pañitos, tapete, calados (photo). 

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Oil - there is presently no oil on land in the Canary Islands. But around the coast in the sea of Gomera and El Hierro, there has been found to be some oil. There has yet to be found a way to dig it out and whether it is worth it.

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Government - The Canary Islands are a part of Spain and as such belong to the European Union (EU). Spain is formed by 17 autonomous communities, one of which is the Canary Islands, and two autonomous cities, Ceuta and Melilla. As such, and even though they are govern by Spain, the islands have their government, paliarment, and administration. The Canary Islands received their Statute of Autonomy on August 16, 1982. Independently of Spain, Canarians choose their own government and parties.

The currency was the peseta which does no longer exist as of January 1, 2002 when the EURO took over. Now 1 euro equals = 166’386 pesetas and the conversion has been brutal!

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Education System - The education system in the Canary Islands is ruled by the government in Spain. There are three types of schools in Spain: 1) public school; 2) consertado; and 3) private. The public school system works like the sytem in the United States. Students are assigned the school that they go to by the neighborhood they live in. The private school system is completely money based, again as the States system. The consertado schools are a mixed of both and it is government subsidized. A percentage of the population of these schools have to come from the neighborhood kids. They still pay a reduced tuition to attend. Due to this, the parents believe they are entitled to treatment which has become a problem.

On October third, 1990, the Spanish government introduced a new educational law called LOGSE or the Organic Law for the General Order of the Educational System. This law was passed to give only broad goals to each school as guides for them to build their own curriculum. It was build on the idea that freedom would allow for flexibility. It has instead created inequality and unfairness. Unfortunately, the wealtheir areas are getting more privileged education and the poorer areas are not getting any opportunity. This is becoming a real problem. The society is also turning against the schools as the problem. Violence against teachers has become more ranpant.

Teachers receive two different kinds of training. If you want to teach Kindergarten through six, you attend University for 3 years and graduate with a degree called magisterio. This includes teaching courses and student teaching. If you would like to teach a subject area in grades 7 through 12, then you attend University for 5 years and get a degree called licensiado. Now, here is the interesting part. This degree is all in the subject area. But it has no teaching courses and the student teaching is extremely limited. Most of these graduates have little to no experience in the teaching world. Yet their salary scale is higher than their elementary counterparts. Most of them feel very fustrated when they begin teaching due to the lack of teaching strategies and tools they have to teach in the classroom. They feel they know lots about their subject area but know little about how to reach their students nor how to transmit their knowledge. It, then, becomes even harder to write a curriculum as this law was intended to do.

Another issue concerning this law is that teachers are responsible for writing their own curriculum. Yet, the textbooks are provided for them. This is the way it works: as a fourth grade teacher in the Canary Islands, I would call the publishing company in Madrid, tell them that I need textbooks for my classroom and they would write them, adjusting them to the local needs of my island and send them to me. So, someone, foreign to the needs of my the classroom, school, town or city and specially island, is writing my textbook. And they are including local customs that they assume exist. You can imagine the problems this can cause. It is normal to find many typos and erros in these textbooks. Then, as a teacher, I have to write a curriculum and adjust the textbooks to it. This is quite an undertaking.

Budget is another issue. None of the teachers in any of these schools are given any budget. They are all given textbooks. The students in the public schools are asked to bring paper, pencils, and other materials for the whole class. The consertado and private schools provide those materials for their students. Teachers lack the money to buy science experiment materials or decorations for the walls. Many public schools even have computer labs that are never used because teachers are not given proper training.

The arts are still taught in the schools, fortunately. Grades one through six get one hour of music a week that consists of music reading, solfége, and recorder. Upper grades also get music but the amount of time is reduced.

Parents that can afford the tuition take their children to private schools. There is a big push for bilingual schools right now. This is the latest fad. Learning a new language is in vogue, no matter how good or poor the education might be. These schools offer classes that are taught 50% in Spanish and 50% in another language such as English, Japanese, or German. The American School of Las Palmas is a good example. Even though it is not technically a bilingual school because classwork is taught solely in English, it does offer Spanish courses for those students that wish to continue their Spanish education as electives. This school’s system is solely based on the California-based curriculum theme of teaching. Unfortunately, for any Canarian student that attends this school, all education about local history and events is lost. This school also offers music and art education. The American School of Las Palmas' curriculum is based on the American education system.

There are two universities in the Canary Islands: Universidad de La Laguna (1817) and Universidad de Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (1989).

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Social Security - Spain has a national health insurance plan that we call social security. It is similar to the Canadian OHIP system.

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Religion - Roman Catholic. Spain has had a long tradition of one church. Think back to the crusades. There are many other churches in Spain, but there are usually for the tourists or foreigners that live there.

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History - Due to their location the Canary Islands remained unexplored for many centuries. Therefore many legends surrounded these islands. Some believed that they were the peaks of the lost continent of Atlantis of which Plato wrote about. Others talked about them as the Elyrian Fields or the Garden of Hesperydes. Plutarch coined the nickname the Fortunate Islands that still remains. Many more legends exist.

But it was not until June of 1402 in the XV century that the Normands explorers, Jean of Bethencourt and lieutenant Gadifer of la Salle, conquered the island of Lanzarote. Later, in 1477, the Reyes Católicos, kings of Spain, took over the bigger islands. But the actual conquest began in Gran Canaria in 1478, led by Juan Rejón and then Pedro Algaba bringing catholicism to the island. By 1496 Tenerife had been taken over against the native Guanches. The Canary Islands were finally conquered by the, at the time known as, the Kingdom of Castile in the 15th Century, between 1402 and 1496.

The Guanches were the aboriginal people of the Canary Islands. Nobody truly knows where the Guanches originated. Archeologists and ethnographers debate whether they come from the Berbers of the Atlas region in Africa. They had goats, sheeps, pigs, and dogs. They farmed with wheat and barley. They cut out small caverns for silos as storage called Cenobio de Valerón. These were also used to keep and feed young girls before marrige to insure future generations.

They were an advanced civilization in that they had quite a communication system. Pintaderas are cave drawings that the Guanches used to communicate with each other. No one knows their significance. There are several theories. Some archeologists say that the kings used them as their tribe symbol. Others say that they were mere cloth and body decorations. Others say that they were used as stamps. What we do know is that there have been numerous ones discovered in all locations of the islands, that they all have similar traits but that they are all different.

Even though the Guanches lived in all of these islands, they all spoke different dialects of the same language. They relied on the same stone-age culture based on sheepherding but not fishing on the ocean or water. If anything, they fished in the local small tidal pools. They seemed scared of the water. Yet, how did these people get here? This still remains a question.

Spanish conquerors were said to have killed all Guanches by pushing them off ravines but this is in no way true. There are stipulated to be thousands of natives, both slaves and free, that aided on the formation of the new society. Unfortunately, most of their language disapeared but a lot of the rituals and part of their culture still remains in the heart of the people.

As the history continues, in 1492, Christopher Columbus stopped in Gran Canaria with the three Spanish ships or caravelas, The Pinta, The Niña, and The Santa Maria on its way to the Americas. His home has now become a museum (Christopher Columbus House's Brochure, Cover; Inside/Panfleto de Casa de Colón, Portada; Interior) for tourists to visit. But this event also placed this island as a prosperous place and an attractive center for pirates. So, it was not actually until 1821 that the Canaries were officially declared a province of Spain.

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Wealth of Culture - It is worth mentioning that for a group of small islands, this archipelago is remarkably rich in culture. Many famous authors, artists, composers, sculptors, architects have been born here. It is quite a legacy and tradition that enriches our land. Among its most notable folk song collectors is Néstor de la Torre, who collected some beautiful songs that are still sang by folk bands/singers. Also to note is Alfredo Kraus. He is a world renowned opera singer. The Alfredo Kraus Auditorium located at the end of Playa de las Canteras (Canteras Beach in Gran Canaria) is a music auditorium with a sculpture of his bust built in his honor. Another notable member of our culture is Pérez Galdos, famous writer. The Pérez Galdos Theatre in Gran Canaria is its main theatre for operas, plays, and other cultural performances. Tomás Morales was also a famous writer. Néstor de la Torre was a famous painter and sculptor. His museum can be visited at the Canarian Village in Gran Canaria. There are many museums, theatres, libraries, concert halls, art galleries, and places to visit.

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Surfing - Due to the height of the waves, surfing is popular in many parts of the islands. In fact, the islands are considered for experienced surfers.

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Gastronomy - Spanish cooking is often confused with that of South America, but our cooking is not as rich in hot peppers and these types of spices. Some typical Spanish dishes are: Paella a la Valenciana, Fabada, Tortilla Españolla, Merluza a la Gallega, Bacalao a la Vizcaína, Cocido Madrileño, and in desserts such as Torrijas. As Spain is a very Catholic country, during the Christmas season the typical Turrones and Mazapanes are made. (See the Christmas page of this site)

In the Canary Islands though, the typical dishes are a little bit different. Our soil is very rich due to the little rainfall. Dishes are rich in fish and vegetables. We have Sancocho, Caldo de Pescado, Potaje de Berros, Gofio Tostado (This is a Guanche dish.  It is toasted flour-wheat or corn powdered. It is then added to milk or broth), Papas Arrugadas con Mojo Picón, Puchero, Chernada, desserts such as Bienmesabe, Rapaduras (from La Palma in a cone-like shape.  Made of brown sugar and honey), Queso de Almendras, Frangollo, y Leche Asada. We have also been making our own wines since 1853.

Guanche - the aboriginals had their own language.  It was very different from the Spanish or Castillian that Canarians speak today. Many phrases do remain today though. Dictionaries are published of the original language but no one speaks it fluently.

Here are some examples of this interensting language:

Belinguear: means de juerga, de parranda

Cachaza: means pachorra (calma, paciencia)

Guagua: means autobus or bus (Estación de Guaguas - Bus Station)

Jaira: means estar como una cabra

Jalar: means tirar

Mandarria: means desaliñado

Parrafiada: means conversación, charla

Singuapo: means tonto?

Tonga: means de chiripa

Totizo: means la parte de atrás del cuello

Trinque: means bebido

Trompada: means puñetazo

Verija: means flacucho, endeble

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Casas Canarias - Canarian Homes Around the World

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Wednesday, January 2, 2008 6:02 PM

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© 2008 Emma Rodríguez Suárez